On to the Marquesas

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“The Marquesas!  What strange visions of outlandish things does the very name spirit up!...I felt an irresistible curiosity to see those islands which the olden voyagers had so glowingly described”…Herman Melville, 1846


Several years ago, some good friends of ours took a 2 week voyage to the Marquesas Islands on a cargo ship, the Aranui.  When they got back, they immediately told us that this was a trip we HAD to take.  It was one of the most amazing experiences they had ever had and knowing us, they knew we would love it.  Okay, I thought, I'll put it on the back burner and maybe someday, with some luck, we'll do it.

Well, that time is upon us.  Nine months ago, we called the Compagnie Polynesienne de Transport Maritime and got the absolute last cabin on the ship for the two weeks we wanted to do the trip.

What is the Aranui?  Well, this is actually the Aranui 3, the third ship in a series of cargo liners that have been sailing every 3 weeks from Tahiti to the Tuamotu and Marquesan archipelagos for more then 30 years.  The ship is literally the lifeblood for these two island groups, delivering everything such as food, diapers, hardware, cars, and most important...beer.  The three successive Aranui ships have also been taking passengers along.  The first two Aranuis had about 50 and 100 passengers.  The Aranui 3 carries about 200.  You are given three squares a day, lunch and dinner with wine (this is a French company, after all). 

On this voyage, there are no cruise ports, just isolated islands with very small villages.   You are given a chance to explore each of the islands while they offload the whiskey and load up the islands products (coconuts, vanilla, oranges, Tahitian ukes, and black pearls).   There are chances for long hikes, horseback rides, and diving.  You are taken to the homes and shops of wood carvers, tapa makers, tattoo artists (ooooohhhh!!!) and Tahitian pearl divers (which don't come from Tahiti, but from the Tuamotus).  There are professional anthropologists on board to lecture on the islands' history and culture.   And you can see the ancient temples and tikis, the graves of Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel, the high peaks, the valleys and the handsome polynesian people who live here. 

There is a band consisting of some of the crew and they play Marquesan songs which Amy and I are looking forward to learning and maybe bringing back to sing.  We are taking our ukuleles as the band, apparently, loves for you to join in and strum.  

The best thing is that this voyage is totally informal.  T shirts, shorts and flip flops is the outfit of choice.  No high heels, no tuxedos, no ties, no fancy stuff...island style.  The crew are all from the Marquesas islands and most have been on the boat for many years.

The voyage starts from Papeete, Tahiti and travels first to one of the Tuamotus; Fakarava, about 250 miles away.  From here, the ship goes another 500 miles north east to the Marquesas, where we will spend about 10 days going to several islands.  Then it's back to the Tuamotus, to the largest coral atoll in the world, Rangiroa, for one last stop and then back to Papeete.  On the map below, you can see where French Polynesia is.  Just click on a picture to make it bigger.

These islands have been visited by adventurers for many years, including Herman Melville, Robert Louis Stevenson and Jack London, who wrote about their travels.  Back in those days, there were still cannibals who enjoyed "long pig" whenever they had a little war and captured some of the enemy.  Why "long pig"?  Tastes like pork, that's why.

Since we'll be on a boat out in the middle of the Pacific, we're not sure when we can post our blog.  But whenever we can, we'll let you know what's going on.  As always, we invite you to come along with us as we continue our search together for the exotic, colorful, beautiful, strange, intriguing, friendly and just plain fun!