Kaoha Nui

My favorite moment  of this trip so far, and we are only two days in on our thirteen day voyage, was hanging out in the tiny bar of the Aranui laying and tapping our feet to the spirited and excellent music of the Aranui house band, led by the young blissful smiler, Mana Ari'i, along with the excellent Uke player Tauta and an even better player and a percussionist and another woman Uke player and another woman percussionist.  They filled the deck with music, segueing from one Tahitian favorite to another. While that was happening, the constant thrum of Aranui's motors and the pitching of the sea disappeared. All was tranquility and happiness.

Earlier today we made our first landfall, at the coral atoll of Fakarava.  There the highlight was listening to the Catholic Church congregation soar in harmony and listening to folks read the gospel in the Tuamotu dialect and realizing I could actually understand it!  Yes, it's really true that the Polynesians can understand each other!   And better yet this afternoon Craig had his first interview with Moana, the Marquesan guy who's going to do his tattoo for him.  Moana sat with us for a long time telling me the Marquesan way of asking someone's name or how they are doing.  And again, I could understand.  

The final thing I am thankful for is I am no longer seasick.  I am back to enjoying Aranui's excellent seafood and salads and light French pastries. Tonight we had fish, wahoo, grilled with veggies in it and topped if you wanted it with a coconut sauce.  Before that was a small Caesar like salad and after it was an almond pistachio tart.  I am starting to drink less of the wine that comes with every meal which is great, the white wine is from the Pays D'oc and its dry light and refreshing but enough is enou already!