While in the Marquesas, do as the Marquesans do.

Walter, lead me to the altar and I'll show you my tattoo", Anonymous 

For many years I've traveled in Hawaii and have admired the beautiful Polynesian tattoos, with their nice geometric patterns and different symbols. In the back of my mind I thought how cool it would be to have one, but I was never brave enough to take the plunge.

But when we decided to take the Aranui voyage, the thought of a real Marquesan tattoo came to mind. I mean, if ever I was going to be "marked", the Marquesas should be the place to do it. For this was where tattoos originally came from and getting a traditional Marquesan tattoo from a real Marquesan would be the way to go. 

Our friend Laurie Rohrer got a small tattoo several years ago in these islands and told me the process. You should have in your mind some of the symbols and meanings that you want to incorporate in your tattoo; the voyage you are on, someone special in your life, a big event in your life, etc. You go over these with your tattoo artist, let him know where you want your tattoo, and then you just let him work his magic. 

I was planning on getting one on one of the islands, but when I mentioned this to Mana, one of the head honchos on the Aranui, he said that they had an in residence tattoo artist from the island of Ua Pou and he could do a tattoo right in the comfort of my room. 

Moana is one of the waiters here and has been tattooing for almost 20 years. He's short, stocky, well muscled and an incredibly friendly guy. He has many tattoos on his body, from face to feet. Many he has done himself and they were all beautiful. We met in the lounge to talk about what I was looking for in a tattoo. At first, I thought I'd like one kind of hidden from view, like my upper arm. But the more Marquesans I saw, with their beautiful body art, the more I thought I should have it in a more visible place. So I decided on a leg band, on the upper part of my calf. The symbols I wanted were to represent my marriage and life commitment to Amy, something to represent our voyage on the Aranui and also either a turtle or a manta ray, each of which have their own symbolism. 

He came to our room at 2:30 this afternoon. During the next hour he would draw what he was planning with a felt pen to give him a guide as he went around with the permanent electric tattoo needle (no, I didn't do the traditional chicken bone thing. I mean, do you think I'm nuts?). 

Once he drew his on outline, he started in tattooing me. I must say that the pain wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, but yes, it did hurt a bit. Some spots hurt more then others, especially the front of the leg on the bone. But Moana was very gentle and careful. I didn't bleed one drop. 

It took exactly one hour, just like Moana said it would take. And the symbols are all there...the Marquesan cross in front, representing our trip to these beautiful islands, waves and wind, representing our trip on the Aranui, two separate symbols of man and woman, representing Amy and me, and on the back of the leg is a manta ray, representing freedom and liberty. 

As I walked around the ship tonight, fellow passengers were oohing and awing at my new leg band tattoo. I must say I think it's really cool and am really glad I did it. There may be other folks on board who take the plunge and they couldn't do better than have Moana as their tattooist. 

Eh voila...